Wardrobe Basics Tag

Custom Tailoring Provides Solutions To Sleeve Length Dilemma

Sports injuries. Medical issues. Unequal muscular development in athletes. All of these can lead to a person’s arms being of different lengths. It’s a fairly common problem that most people never think about—until they find that they can’t find shirts that work. Either one sleeve is always hiding inside their coat sleeve while the other extends to the wrist, or one sleeve is bunched up at the wrist while the other sits naturally. Even though the sleeves are the same length, they look uneven when worn, if your arm lengths are not identical. Off-the-rack clothing is not designed to address this problem, leaving many gentlemen frustrated and unable to create a balanced look every day. Fortunately, the solution is easy—custom tailored clothing. The custom shirts and coats we design and build exclusively for you will fit you perfectly. We take far more measurements than a seamstress or alterations person in a clothing...

Read More

All About Stripes

Stripes can be a great way to bring interest into an outfit—as long as the stripes are chosen with care. To incorporate stripes into an ensemble that that works for you, consider the following points: Vertical for business. Rugby and polo shirts often use horizontal stripes, but in business clothing, vertical stripes are more appropriate. Thin is in. While not all stripes need be pinstripe width, choosing thin stripes over thick, blocky stripes will generally look more refined. Variation works. Your stripes need not be uniform in either color or width. A shirt or tie with a variety of multi-width and multi-colored stripes can be quite pleasing to the eye. Combinations matter. If you’re creating an attention-drawing outfit, colors that sit opposite each other on a color wheel are highly effective. If you’re crafting an elegant business ensemble, your colors should be closer to each other on the wheel. Subtlety in a pin. Your pinstriped...

Read More

Brown and Navy: Fundamentals or Just FUN?

Brown and navy blue are often considered to be neutral colors. While it’s true that they often serve as the backdrop for other colors, they also can make surprisingly strong statements on their own. Your brown pieces need not be limited to solid dark browns in your trousers and shoes. Consider creating a mono-chromatic ensemble that includes shades of brown such as cream, light tan, camel brown, and lustrous mahogany. The effect, far from being neutral, is warm and engaging. Pair navy blue with crisp white or light gray, and even the darkest blue is transformed from a foundation color to a stylish accent piece. Don’t limit your navy blue to trousers and socks—try it in a tie or shirt for stand-out color use....

Read More

Dress Code — or Dress Principles?

Today’s companies are turning away from the lax dress habits of the last two decades. Instead of relying on a specific "dress code", many professionals are able to choose their own attire. That can create a dilemma for some, as they wonder how to dress appropriately when there are few (or no) guidelines. What do terms like “casual Friday” mean? What is too casual? What is too formal? We suggest you dress for the activity or event at hand rather than the day of the week. Casual clothing, such as tee shirts and jeans, are best for personal time. Dressy clothing, such as your suits and other custom professional clothing, should be used when conducting important business. Your dress choices show others how you feel about your work. Take pride in both. Save extremely casual clothing for free time—your business accomplishments and capabilities deserve respect, and a tee shirt cannot communicate that. If...

Read More

How to Store a Tie

Your holiday or seasonal neckwear needs a safe place to rest until its moment to shine arrives. Instead of letting occasional-use ties collect dust or fade by languishing near your everyday ties, treat them right by storing them wisely. Fold the tie in half lengthwise. Roll it up smoothly from the folded end to the point. Be careful your roll is neither too tight, nor too loose. Store the tie in a shallow drawer. Now it’ll be in excellent condition when its day to shine arrives....

Read More

Achieving the Lived-in Look

While a crisp, clean look is appealing, there are times when you don’t want to look too pressed, too starched, too new. Especially in your custom casual clothing, you may want to create a more lived-in look than your dressier wardrobe pieces offer—without sacrificing on style or fit. Your expertly crafted customwear will look—and feel—as comfortable and familiar as your long-beloved favorites. Your color choices can also help create a more relaxed look. Choose muted earth tones instead of bright, crisp colors. Mossy greens, camel brown, and heathered colors are good options when crafting that subtle lived-in look. Low-contrast plaids and stripes look more relaxed than contrasting colors. Denim is a perennial favorite for crafting the lived-in look. Its color intensity varies sharply with wear, yet denim offers long-lasting durability. Pairing a custom-made shirt in an earth tone with a well-fitting pair of denim jeans instantly gives you an appealing ensemble. Remember that...

Read More

Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between hand-sewn and machine-sewn seams? This is what I shared with them: Hand-sewn seams are created by a single thread running through fabric like a wave. Done right, they lay smooth and do not pucker. Hand-sewn seams handle stretching well, and spring back into place after movement. Hand stitching is advantageous in curved areas like armholes, collars, and waistbands. Machine-sewn seams use two threads crossing over each other through the fabric. They are sturdy and more precise than hand-sewn seams, but the extra tension created by having two threads pulling in opposition can lead to puckers in the fabric on curves. Machine stitching is advantageous in straight-seam areas like trouser legs, where it can be more durable and cleaner than hand stitching....

Read More

Color and Lighting Conditions

We may think that a color is always the same, but colors can change drastically in different lighting conditions. At dawn and dusk, fabric colors will look warmer and richer. Light from a northern window at noon will give fabrics a cooler appearance. Artificial lighting can change colors even more. Incandescent bulbs give a pinkish cast, while fluorescent lights add green or blue. It’s useful to know how your ensemble will look in its intended setting. Blacks can take on a brown or greenish hue. Midnight blues can appear blacker than actual black fabrics. Planning in advance can allow you to optimize your color choices—especially for formalwear. If true black will turn to dark green, you may prefer to create your next tuxedo in a midnight blue. When selecting fabrics, view the swatches in the lighting types that will dominate during their use: consider indirect and direct natural light, as well as...

Read More

Vacation Essentials: Clothing

I received this question from a reader: What essentials do you recommend packing for vacations? This is what I shared with them: When you’re heading out for a vacation, it’s easy to over-pack as you try to anticipate every possible weather condition or activity. Instead of trying to fit everything you might possibly need into your carry-on bag, consider this list of a few travel vacation essentials that can help you keep comfortable in unexpected situations. Even if you’re going to a warm climate, bring a light sweater in case of a change in weather. Bring a blazer for evening breeze protection (if you’re wearing the sweater, you can gallantly offer the blazer to your travel companion). Pack at least one dress shirt for evenings out. Bring dark jeans and comfortable shoes (that aren’t sandals). And of course, bring your sunglasses....

Read More

Daring and Sparing: How to Wear Unusual Colors

The basics play an important role in a wardrobe, but sometimes you may want to wear unusual colors to add life and vitality to an outfit. When you’re deciding when—and how—to incorporate these colors into your ensemble, keep the following concepts in mind: A little goes a long way. Whether you’re considering lime green or sunshine yellow, be careful not to let it overwhelm the rest of your ensemble. A bright, bold pocket square or tie will usually serve the purpose better than a coat of the same color. Know your purpose. Are you trying to stand out in a job interview or showcase your inner creativity? A wardrobe piece that shows off your fashion savvy at a luncheon with those in a creative industry may not work as well in an interview setting. Keep unusual colors higher on the frame. A violet vest or tie is generally preferable to violet trousers, unless...

Read More