Tailored Tag

All About Trousers

Tell people about your slacks, and they'll figure you're fairly casual. Tell them about your pants, and they'll figure you're indifferent. Tell people about your trousers, and they'll know you've got style. Your trousers should rest comfortably on the hips, neither rising so high that they cover the abdomen nor sitting so low that they need to be cinched tight to stay on. Secure them either with the aid of a belt or suspenders (you can call them braces). Braces ensure your trousers stay in place when you switch between sitting and standing. If you opt for braces, choose a set that attaches to the trousers with buttons rather than metal clips. Using a belt offers a clean, crisp look. The belt may need to occasionally be lifted when your trousers have settled too low, but keeps a lower visual profile than braces. Your individual style should determine whether your custom trousers use a...

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Custom-Tailored Tuxedo: Rich Tradition, Modern Elegance

The tuxedo we all know and love just turned 150 years old. Designed as a short dinner jacket, the tuxedo was born in the era of smoking jackets and top hats-but unlike its contemporaries, the tuxedo's place in modern society remains undiminished. Even in our far more casual, modern world, elegant events still call for the stylish grace of the tuxedo. Wearing your custom-tailored tuxedo allows you to bring your unique sense of style to your formalwear-and helps make sure you look fantastic during formal occasions. Although most men do not wear a tuxedo as frequently as a business suit, even a few formal occasions can warrant investing in a custom tailored tuxedo. When designing your tuxedo, consider: Lapels- Peak lapels are classic on a tuxedo. Notched collars are less dressy than peak lapels. A satin shawl collar brings added shine to the ensemble. Tie-Wear a bow tie with...

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As You Like It: Custom Clothing

In this day of mass-produced products and lowest-common-denominator thinking, it's good to know that you can still have your personal preferences and needs taken into account. As your custom clothier, we don't force you to fit into any categories of fit, color, or fashion. Instead, your clothing is designed and fitted specifically for you. We take the frustration out of trying to find your "size" amid colors and fabrics meant to appeal to the greatest potential number of buyers. Instead, you can relax knowing that your custom clothing will exactly fit your shape, as well as your needs. With more than 100 tailoring steps in the jacket alone, custom-made clothes are meticulously crafted and detailed. Custom clothing, because it's not dependent on the designers' current seasonal offerings, can reflect your individual sense of style and personality far longer than ready-made clothing. Instead of needing to replace valuable wardrobe pieces annually, you'll find...

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Allowances for New Dress Shirt Shrinkage

I received this question from a reader: How much shrinkage should I allow for when I select new dress shirts? Here's what I shared with them: As your custom tailor, naturally we allow sufficient fabric for shrinkage, so you never have to worry about ending up with a shirt that’s too small. If you still want to know the basics of shrinkage, remember that cotton fabrics will generally shrink more lengthwise (from top to bottom) than across (from side to side). Some shirts may shrink up to half an inch in length. Check that you can fit one to two fingers between your neck and the collar. This allows room for ease in wearing and for any shrinkage. Most shirts will allow plenty of length in the body of the shirt, but make sure the shirt sleeves are long enough to lose half an inch and still reach to your wrist easily....

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Detailed to “Suit” You

We’ve all heard the phrase, “the devil is in the details.” It’s true that the details—whether in business dealings or business attire—can make the difference between success and failure. Most businessmen wouldn’t dream of presenting a business proposal without careful attention to the details. Applying that same level of care to a business wardrobe is just as important. The niceties of a suit can create the impression of success or failure, competence or irresponsibility, strength or weakness. We can help you craft a suit that conveys the impression most suitable to your needs. The choices on details are seldom “right” or “wrong,” but rather points on a sliding scale. For example, using a Windsor half-knot on your tie looks heavier than the trimmer four-in-hand knot. Cutting squared suit shoulders creates a more solid look than the closely fitted silhouette. Your custom-tailored suit is shaped not just to fit your measurements, but to create...

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Suit Selection: Fitting Your Form

Mass-made clothing is, of necessity, sized for the masses. Dimensions are reduced to the most likely measurements and produced accordingly. While mass-made clothing may fit the greatest number of people, it can create an unappealing presentation for those without an "average" build. Rather than attempt to fit themselves into the average suit, those on the extremes of either height or girth, like anyone who wants options in their personal wardrobes, are best served by custom-fit clothing. Follow these suit-selection tips according to your build: For the taller gentleman, double-breasted suits add needed width, balancing out height. The same is true of pleats and cuffs on trousers. Paired with a high-quality cotton dress shirt with a small pattern and a striped tie, the ensemble makes height an asset rather than an inconvenience when sizing clothing. Those blessed more with girth than height may find a single-breasted suit to be a better choice. This slims...

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