Shirts | J. Kent Ltd.

Three Keys To Designing The White Oxford Button-Down Shirt

Feb 15 2018

The reliable white oxford button-down is a workhorse of a shirt. You can confidently wear it during graduation ceremonies, weddings, funerals, some interviews, and at just about any day at work. Your custom oxford looks deliciously crisp when ironed, yet warm and casual when un-tucked. As a custom clothier, here are three key steps we take to ensure each custom button-down oxford we build is truly outstanding. First, we select a fabric with a firm, tight weave. This density of thread makes your shirt last longer and feel smoother than clothing constructed from a lesser fabric. Second, we insist on using only high-quality buttons. For most gentlemen, the ideal buttons are forgettable-without looking cheap. We have an excellent selection for you to choose from, including traditional mother-of-pearl. Our third step is to customize your collar roll, which ensures your collar arches gracefully from your neck to the buttons instead of clinging tightly to...

J Kent Erickson

Shirts, Vests, & Blouses

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Accessories & Jewelry

The Guide to Cufflinks

Jan 15 2018

The T-bar is the most widely available type of cufflink. The hinged bar swings shut to let you push it through a buttonhole and then opens to keep the cufflink in place. It easy to put on and take off, and comes with just about any decoration imaginable. However, the decoration is only on one end of the cufflink, dressing only one side of your cuff. The fixed bar gives a decorative element on both ends of the cufflink, so your cufflink is dressy from any viewing angle. Because there are no moving parts, fixed bar cufflinks tend to be quite long lasting. Hold the larger end and press the smaller end through each buttonhole. The chain cufflink has two decorative elements connected by a chain instead of a solid bar. Grasp the smaller end and press it through each set of buttonholes one at a time. Once through, simply rotate it...

J Kent Erickson

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Shirts, Vests, & Blouses

Types of Shirt Plackets

Dec 15 2017

Designing your personal style means paying attention to details. Have you considered the style potential of choosing between the various options for shirt placket design? (That's the strip of fabric that holds the buttons.) Front placket-found in the vast majority of dress shirts. Always a good option for business attire, but its ubiquity means it lacks individuality. No front placket-also called a French front, this placket has no visual stitching alongside the row of buttons, so it creates clean lines but can be trickier to iron. Covered placket-commonly called a fly front, the covered placket has an additional layer of fabric covering the buttons. It's sometimes found in tuxedo shirts and other very dressy clothing. Tuxedo front-looks similar to the French front but differs in that the top four buttons are removable, allowing you to replace the buttons with tuxedo studs. This placket is best used only with tuxedo shirts. The...

J Kent Erickson

Shirts, Vests, & Blouses

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Wardrobe Basics

QUEUE UP FOR COOL BLUES

Dec 01 2017

Blue is one of the most dependable colors for your custom clothing. Navy blazers and suit coats make your favorite white shirts look fantastically crisp. They're also great paired with shirts in pastels of any shade, or a soft gray. If you're looking to make a coat or full suit in a lighter shade of blue, consider a blue-gray tone for an elegant change of pace. Dress shirts made in a rich shade of blue are a perfect partner for tan or gray trousers or crisp jeans. Make sure the jeans and shirt are not so close in color that they compete visually. When dressing in blues, add in an accent piece for a splash of color, whether it's a tie, a pocket square, a tie clip, or cuff links....

J Kent Erickson

Wardrobe Basics

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Accessories & Jewelry

Raising the Bar: The Collar Pin

Oct 01 2016

You already know that paying attention to your accessories sets you apart from the crowd. One accoutrement that quickly gives an air of elegance to an ensemble is a collar pin. This refined tool gives the knot in your tie more visual importance and stability. It’s perfect for days when you want to look your best—and want the confidence that comes from stylish dressing. Many notable gentlemen of style have been known to sport a collar pin, from Fred Astaire and Steve McQueen to Tom Ford and Daniel Craig. Its rarity is part of its appeal, as its use shows considerable sartorial savvy. If you enjoy the collar pin but prefer a less noticeable approach, put aside the more common safety pin style and try the barbell style. Whichever collar pin you prefer, make sure to pair it with a substantial tie knot for best effect....

J Kent Erickson

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Plastic Collar Stays vs. Metal Collar Stays

Jul 01 2016

I received this question from a reader: Which are better, plastic or metal collar stays? This is what I shared with them: Collar stays are inserted into the points of your collar to strengthen the fabric. Over time, even if you remove the plastic stays before they go through the rigors of being laundered, they may bend enough that they no longer have the stiffness necessary to maintain the collar’s strong V shape. Metal stays are less flexible than plastic ones, so do not bend as easily. If you’re trying out metal stays, consider magnetic ones. They’re a great option for collars that don’t have stay pockets (such as polo shirts) and occasions when you want to precisely control the collar presentation....

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J. Kent Ltd. Experience

Custom Tailoring Provides Solutions To Sleeve Length Dilemma

Apr 15 2016

Sports injuries. Medical issues. Unequal muscular development in athletes. All of these can lead to a person’s arms being of different lengths. It’s a fairly common problem that most people never think about—until they find that they can’t find shirts that work. Either one sleeve is always hiding inside their coat sleeve while the other extends to the wrist, or one sleeve is bunched up at the wrist while the other sits naturally. Even though the sleeves are the same length, they look uneven when worn, if your arm lengths are not identical. Off-the-rack clothing is not designed to address this problem, leaving many gentlemen frustrated and unable to create a balanced look every day. Fortunately, the solution is easy—custom tailored clothing. The custom shirts and coats we design and build exclusively for you will fit you perfectly. We take far more measurements than a seamstress or alterations person in a clothing...

J Kent Erickson

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Master Going Tie-less

Dec 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: When I don’t wear a tie, I feel like my outfit looks incomplete. How do I master going tie-less? This is what I shared with them: When you’re skipping the tie, you’ll need to make sure your shirt is up to the task. Choose thicker fabric to ensure your shirt won’t “wilt” without a tie to stabilize it and pull it into shape. If you frequently go tie-less, consider creating a stiffer-than-usual collar for even more help with stabilization. And, of course, a shirt that fits you perfectly will always look better than one that’s merely close to fitting you and requires a tie to cover its inadequacy....

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Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

Contrast Cuffs and Collars

Dec 01 2015

A shirt that uses a different fabric for the cuffs and collar offer an interesting variation from the traditional single-fabric shirt. Because they are somewhat unusual, they allow you to make a statement. Many gentlemen never try wearing shirts with contrasting elements, but for those who enjoy using their wardrobe to express their unique sense of style and image, it can be a good option. Building a custom wardrobe allows you to build this type of shirt using precisely the colors that you choose, along with giving you the perfect fit you enjoy on your other custom shirts. This style is most often seen as a blue shirt with a white collar and white French cuffs. Other color combinations, such as using printed fabrics as the contrast, will look more casual than the white-and-blue option, so consider the occasion and environment it will be worn in before you make your decision. You’ll look...

J Kent Erickson

Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

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Best Color Shirt for Interviews

Jan 13 2014

I received this question from a reader: What color shirt is best for job interviews? This is what I shared with them: Unless you’re applying to work as a graphic designer or other artistic talent, a job interview isn’t the place to show off every facet of your personal sense of style. Instead of wearing your most unique look, the best color shirt for interviews showcase your ability to create a professional appearance by selecting a traditional look for your interview. Your first choice for an interview shirt is standard white, followed by light blue. Save the shirts with stripes, checks, and bold colors for later. Your tie need not be limited to a “power tie,” but should be conservative in tone....

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