Little Details | J. Kent Ltd.

Achieving the Lived-in Look

Sep 01 2015

While a crisp, clean look is appealing, there are times when you don’t want to look too pressed, too starched, too new. Especially in your custom casual clothing, you may want to create a more lived-in look than your dressier wardrobe pieces offer—without sacrificing on style or fit. Your expertly crafted customwear will look—and feel—as comfortable and familiar as your long-beloved favorites. Your color choices can also help create a more relaxed look. Choose muted earth tones instead of bright, crisp colors. Mossy greens, camel brown, and heathered colors are good options when crafting that subtle lived-in look. Low-contrast plaids and stripes look more relaxed than contrasting colors. Denim is a perennial favorite for crafting the lived-in look. Its color intensity varies sharply with wear, yet denim offers long-lasting durability. Pairing a custom-made shirt in an earth tone with a well-fitting pair of denim jeans instantly gives you an appealing ensemble. Remember that...

J Kent Erickson

Casual Attire

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Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

Aug 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between hand-sewn and machine-sewn seams? This is what I shared with them: Hand-sewn seams are created by a single thread running through fabric like a wave. Done right, they lay smooth and do not pucker. Hand-sewn seams handle stretching well, and spring back into place after movement. Hand stitching is advantageous in curved areas like armholes, collars, and waistbands. Machine-sewn seams use two threads crossing over each other through the fabric. They are sturdy and more precise than hand-sewn seams, but the extra tension created by having two threads pulling in opposition can lead to puckers in the fabric on curves. Machine stitching is advantageous in straight-seam areas like trouser legs, where it can be more durable and cleaner than hand stitching....

J Kent Erickson

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J. Kent Ltd. Experience

FINE ART OF CUSTOM CLOTHING IS PRICELESS

Aug 01 2015

The quote may be from a popular children’s movie, but the idea is true for grown-up endeavors as well. You may have heard it said as a variation of this: “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.” No matter how you say it, true quality takes time, effort, and skill. Custom clothing is its own kind of art, and it does take time to create high-quality customized clothing. Even in today’s frenetically paced world, where nearly everything seems to be “instantly” available, it takes time to create the kind of quality and precision that make your custom clothing a fantastic investment in comfort and style. If the dyeing process is rushed, the result is uneven colors. If the hand-sewn seams are rushed, the end result is puckered fabric. If the measuring is rushed, you’ll end up with a poor fit. Remember that your art (in this case, custom clothing) is worth waiting for—because...

J Kent Erickson

J. Kent Ltd. Experience

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Accessories & Jewelry

Principles of the Wallet

Jul 15 2015

Unlike its predecessors, the wallet of today doesn’t need to hold a myriad of tiny family photos, store credit cards, and paper receipts. However, even with all the changes in what people carry with them, wallets are not obsolete—they offer a safe home for your essentials, protecting them from the wear and tear of traveling with you each day. Choosing a Wallet When you’re selecting your next wallet, consider these points: A slim wallet will not create unsightly bulk when carried in a pocket. Top-grain leather gives long-lasting durability with premium visual appeal. Make sure your wallet has only the essential card pockets, as these add layers of cloth and leather. Keep only the essentials in your wallet; carry larger or rarely used items in a briefcase or travel bag. The color of leather is not of primary importance, but you may opt to coordinate your wallet with your belt and shoes. Wearing a Wallet The best place...

J Kent Erickson

Accessories & Jewelry

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Image & Lifestyle

Sprezzatura: The Art of Carelessness

May 01 2015

Some of us work hard to create a look of elegance. They study, they learn, they make careful style decisions. Others of us seem to achieve elegance naturally. They have an air of easy grace and carelessness that seems to belie the effort involved in looking fantastic. What’s the difference? It’s sprezzatura: the Italian concept of nonchalance with excellence, which we might call studied carelessness. And it’s a fantastic way to create your own individual style. But how to achieve it? What’s the difference between painstaking perfection and effortless perfection? It’s the imperfections. Good style shouldn’t look like you worked hard to create an ensemble; it should look like it sprang into being spontaneously, joyfully. Avoid being overly careful when placing your pocket square. Let your tie knot be off-center. Wear shoes that do not exactly match your suit. A small imperfection may be the key to creating the perfect air of...

Modern Custom Tailoring: Old-World Craftsmanship & High-Tech Capabilities

Apr 01 2015

In the past, master artisans built up time-tested methods of craftsmanship that created goods of enduring quality. Today, modern custom tailoring is a union of machinery and materials that allows us to enjoy manufactured goods with strength and durability unimaginable by the craftsmen of yesteryear. Which is better? Do you choose traditional quality or technological solutions? Happily, you don’t have to choose: a “marriage” of craftsmanship and technology allows you to enjoy both, in a partnership that combines the best of yesterday and today. Custom clothing offers today’s discriminating gentleman the same painstaking attention to detail and craft as the tailors of old. You don’t have to settle for any of today’s rushed, shoddy workmanship that is merely “good enough” and rarely achieves lasting quality. The fabrics in your custom wardrobe are refined and elegant. Modern textile fabrication methods offer lightweight fabrics with unsurpassed durability and ease of movement. You don’t have to...

Suit Coat: Bottom Button Rule

Mar 02 2015

I received this question from a reader: Why is the bottom button of my suit coat supposed to be left undone? This is what I shared with them: It may seem like the kind of rule that sprang from a long-standing convention of style whose origins and rationale have been largely forgotten today, such as the stripe on tuxedo trousers or the band on a fedora, but that’s not the case here. The lowest (bottom button) on a two- or three-button suit coat is generally left unbuttoned for functional reasons: to allow your comfort when you sit, to avoid bunching up when you move your arms, and to accommodate any girth that may have accumulated since your youth. Alternately, many coats are designed with a single decorative button. These are to be worn open—buttoning the coat could pull and misshape the fabric. ...

Be the Best-Dressed Person in Any Room

Feb 16 2015

Dressing well is less a matter of “making a statement” than it is creating elegance through simplicity. A few key points will help you on your way to sartorial success. The detailing on your clothing matters, as it shows your careful attention to the essentials. Your custom attire allows you to choose details that work perfectly with your physique, your personality, your profession, and your sense of style—and, because they’re tailored just for you, your clothes will always offer you an impeccable fit. Today’s clothing strategy seems to be to dress as casually as the occasion will allow—but that’s never a recipe for being well-dressed. Instead, the best-dressed select an outfit that is slightly dressier than the occasion requires. Each interaction with peers is an opportunity to create a favorable impression. That’s easier to accomplish when you have the confidence that custom-tailored clothing naturally inspires. To avoid spending unnecessary time in your closet...

The Elegance of Italy—Right Here at Home

Sep 20 2014

The elegance of Italy, especially Italian clothing, is known around the globe for its well-designed style. Achieving “la bella figura,” a way of life that encompasses refined aesthetics in clothing and manners, is a traditional Italian goal—but it’s not limited to Italians. When you design your own customized wardrobe, you can bring the traditions of Italy home. Each minute detail of your tailoring can help create the sense of style and sophistication embodied in the Italian mentality. Sometimes, the traditional ways are the best: generations of Italian tailors have dressed their clients with style and elegance. Your custom wardrobe offers you the same degree of luxury in clothing—all without leaving the comforts of home....

Tips for the Hard-to-Fit Gentleman

Jul 06 2014

Part of the appeal of custom clothing is being able to fit a hard-to-fit physique. Whether you’re short or tall, stocky or slim, customized options can create your best possible look. For Shorter Men Keep the break in your trousers minimal to lengthen the front crease line. Place your suit coat buttons a little lower (two-button coats will be more flattering than three-button coats) and consider using peak lapels—the longer lines add the illusion of height. Enjoy the bolder fabrics that your taller colleagues can’t always pull off, such as glen plaid and Prince of Wales. For Taller Men To keep things in proportion, choose wider ties and a spread-collar shirt. Accessories such as a belt, a tie bar, or a pocket square can help break up the impression of height. Rounder toes on your shoes are helpful, along with ties with horizontal or diagonal stripes. For Stocky Men Unless you’re sitting down, keep your suit...

J Kent Erickson

Image & Lifestyle

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