Coats | J. Kent Ltd.

Suit Coat: Bottom Button Rule

Mar 02 2015

I received this question from a reader: Why is the bottom button of my suit coat supposed to be left undone? This is what I shared with them: It may seem like the kind of rule that sprang from a long-standing convention of style whose origins and rationale have been largely forgotten today, such as the stripe on tuxedo trousers or the band on a fedora, but that’s not the case here. The lowest (bottom button) on a two- or three-button suit coat is generally left unbuttoned for functional reasons: to allow your comfort when you sit, to avoid bunching up when you move your arms, and to accommodate any girth that may have accumulated since your youth. Alternately, many coats are designed with a single decorative button. These are to be worn open—buttoning the coat could pull and misshape the fabric. ...

J Kent Erickson

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Fabrics & Textiles

What’s Great about Gabardine

Aug 06 2014

Born in the middle ages and refined with current textile techniques, gabardine has come of age with surprising elegance. Originally intended for outerwear such as traveling cloaks, today gabardine is a refined, elegant fabric for a variety of purposes. In more modern times, gabardine has clothed adventurers and trendsetters as they traveled to such exotic locations as Antarctica and Mount Everest. Gabardine combines the strength and durability of a tightly-woven twill with a more supple hand than many other twills. The twisted weave that is gabardine’s signature element creates micro-ridges that allow light to almost bend around it, giving it a soft, almost luminous look. The fabric’s luxurious feel will complement the finer pieces in your wardrobe without looking overly formal. This fabric is also a fantastic choice for business-casual trousers. Gabardine’s durability stacks up well next to the twilled cotton that is today’s most common choice for casual trousers, while retaining...

J Kent Erickson

Fabrics & Textiles

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Defining Different Types of Coats

Apr 20 2014

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between a blazer, sport coat, and my suit coat? This is what I shared with them:To define the different types of coats, it's easiest to look at their traditional usage. A blazer comes from navy traditions. It typically has patch pockets on the outside and metallic buttons, both on the front and on the coat sleeves. Dark colors are common, with navy blue predominating. A sport coat comes from country living in England (particularly hunting), and is often made of twilled cotton or tweed. Sport coats tend to include rustic shades of brown, but may include a variety of colors. A suit coat is made of wool and is more formal than the other two. Although naturally it matches your suit’s trousers, many suit coats can also be coordinated with other dressy trousers. Suit coats come in a variety of colors; traditional choices are...

Blazer in Blue: Fall 2011

Oct 11 2011

Get more mileage out of your wardrobe with a perfectly tailored blazer in blue. As the economy looks up and colors lighten across the fashion industry, traditional navy blazers are joined by brighter shades of blue, giving a modern twist to a timeless classic. Look for tones ranging from inky, saturated blues to more subtle gray-blues in this versatile jacket. The season’s fresh colors still retain the mix-and-match appeal that makes a blue blazer a wardrobe staple for the well-dressed gentleman. Blue will coordinate easily with almost any trouser color, from cream to brown and from khaki to gray. The neutral blazer also allows a myriad of shoe color options. Consider rich browns and deep burgundies for your leather shoes to add warmth to your ensemble. You can take advantage of the blazer’s ability to support almost any colors by pairing it with a variety of stylish combinations of high-quality shirts and...

J Kent Erickson

Seasonal Attire

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Shirts, Vests, & Blouses

The Versatile Vest

Oct 04 2011

Vests can be excellent mix-and-match wardrobe pieces. Rather than limiting their use to the three-piece suit, use versatile vests as coordinating pieces for sport coats and trousers. Consider having vests personalized to your taste—lapels, pockets, fabric, and fit can all be custom-crafted to create timeless pieces that will give you extra options with your existing shirts, trousers, and coats. Traditionally, vests are made of the same fabric as a jacket or trousers. They can also draw on contrasting colors, or simply use a base color from the jacket or trousers. When creating combinations, keep fabric choices (tweed, silk, cotton, wool) similar enough to avoid an awkward pairing....

J Kent Erickson

Shirts, Vests, & Blouses

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Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

Peaked Lapels are at the Peak

May 24 2010

Many business suits feature a notched lapel, conveying a dependable functionality. But when you’re looking for something a little dressier, let your lapels climb to the peak. Wearing an elegant coat with peaked lapels is suitable for most business needs, but this isn’t the suit coat that doubles as a sport coat. Don’t pair peaked lapels (including double-breasted coats) with jeans and a T-shirt–keep the power suit powerful. For an added measure of dressiness, pair the peak lapel suit with a coordinating vest. Overcoats may also be made with peaked lapels, creating an even stronger combination of elegance....

J Kent Erickson

Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

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