Ask Kent

Master Going Tie-less

Dec 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: When I don’t wear a tie, I feel like my outfit looks incomplete. How do I master going tie-less? This is what I shared with them: When you’re skipping the tie, you’ll need to make sure your shirt is up to the task. Choose thicker fabric to ensure your shirt won’t “wilt” without a tie to stabilize it and pull it into shape. If you frequently go tie-less, consider creating a stiffer-than-usual collar for even more help with stabilization. And, of course, a shirt that fits you perfectly will always look better than one that’s merely close to fitting you and requires a tie to cover its inadequacy....

J Kent Erickson

How to Choose Cuff Links

Oct 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: How do I choose cuff links? This is what I shared with them: There are several good approaches to choosing cuff links. You may want to wear cuff links that carry personal meaning, such as an heirloom set or gift from a loved one. Your cuff links can also show support of a group you value, such as your political affiliation, your alma mater, or a philanthropic cause you support. Or, you may choose cuff links as a tribute to your culture or geographical region. Ideally, the best cuff links have visual appeal on both sides, instead of having one decorative side and one plain side. However, a fantastic design may be worth having a standard swivel on the back side....

J Kent Erickson

Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

Aug 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between hand-sewn and machine-sewn seams? This is what I shared with them: Hand-sewn seams are created by a single thread running through fabric like a wave. Done right, they lay smooth and do not pucker. Hand-sewn seams handle stretching well, and spring back into place after movement. Hand stitching is advantageous in curved areas like armholes, collars, and waistbands. Machine-sewn seams use two threads crossing over each other through the fabric. They are sturdy and more precise than hand-sewn seams, but the extra tension created by having two threads pulling in opposition can lead to puckers in the fabric on curves. Machine stitching is advantageous in straight-seam areas like trouser legs, where it can be more durable and cleaner than hand stitching....

J Kent Erickson

Vacation Essentials: Clothing

Jun 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What essentials do you recommend packing for vacations? This is what I shared with them: When you’re heading out for a vacation, it’s easy to over-pack as you try to anticipate every possible weather condition or activity. Instead of trying to fit everything you might possibly need into your carry-on bag, consider this list of a few travel vacation essentials that can help you keep comfortable in unexpected situations. Even if you’re going to a warm climate, bring a light sweater in case of a change in weather. Bring a blazer for evening breeze protection (if you’re wearing the sweater, you can gallantly offer the blazer to your travel companion). Pack at least one dress shirt for evenings out. Bring dark jeans and comfortable shoes (that aren’t sandals). And of course, bring your sunglasses....

J Kent Erickson

How to Iron a Dress Shirt

Apr 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What's the Best Way to Iron a Dress Shirt? This is what I shared with them: Ironing carefully will ensure your shirts look their absolute best each time you wear them. Use the lowest temperature that is effective. Turn on the steam setting if necessary. Thicker fabric will require more heat and steam than thin fabric. Iron the back of the shirt first, from the center to the sides. Iron the sleeves next, followed by the cuffs. Turn the shirt over and iron each side of the front, taking care to iron between buttons instead of running over them. Iron the collar last. Hang (or wear) immediately to avoid getting new wrinkles in the fabric....

J Kent Erickson

Suit Coat: Bottom Button Rule

Mar 02 2015

I received this question from a reader: Why is the bottom button of my suit coat supposed to be left undone? This is what I shared with them: It may seem like the kind of rule that sprang from a long-standing convention of style whose origins and rationale have been largely forgotten today, such as the stripe on tuxedo trousers or the band on a fedora, but that’s not the case here. The lowest (bottom button) on a two- or three-button suit coat is generally left unbuttoned for functional reasons: to allow your comfort when you sit, to avoid bunching up when you move your arms, and to accommodate any girth that may have accumulated since your youth. Alternately, many coats are designed with a single decorative button. These are to be worn open—buttoning the coat could pull and misshape the fabric. ...

J Kent Erickson

Business Casual: When to Wear a Tie

Dec 22 2014

I received this question from a reader: How do I know when to wear a tie with business casual clothes? This is what I shared with them: Perhaps the better question is, what’s best for this ensemble? Your goal is to find the right look for the outfit and occasion. A great tie that works with the fabrics, color scheme, and patterns you’ve chosen can instantly add flair to your look. Your well-chosen tie can add texture and color without changing the essential nature (casual or dressy) of your clothing. If you’re concerned that a tie is needed for an occasion but want something beyond the conventional look of a long tie, consider a bow tie or a knit tie—or secure your tie with a multi-layered tie knot....

J Kent Erickson

Suit Coats & Vest Lapels

Oct 27 2014

I received this question from a reader: Can I wear a vest with lapels under my suit coat? This is what I shared with them: The beauty of custom clothing is being able to create your individual look—and that includes vest lapels under your suit coat. Be sure that the extra thickness of the lapels does not look overly bulky with your coat on. Remember that, with custom clothing, you always have options. You may save the vest with lapels for days that you’ll be going coatless for much of the time. If you’re unsure what look you prefer, please give us a call so we can work together to create a fantastic signature look for you....

J Kent Erickson

Suits: To Press or Steam

Aug 20 2014

I received this question from a reader: Should I press or steam my suit? Or should I just take it to the cleaners? This is what I shared with them: Steaming is far gentler on your suit than too-frequent dry cleanings and the high-temperature commercial press. Steam it lightly just before wearing, instead of immediately after wearing it. This will allow any moisture to dry naturally and remove any wrinkles from storage. Your dress shirts should be pressed instead of steamed to smooth the fabric and give it a crisp look....

J Kent Erickson

Coordinating Light Colored Blue Jeans

Jun 20 2014

I received this question from a follower: I have a pair of light colored blue jeans that I love. What should I wear with them? This is what I shared with them: Light-blue jeans can bring a great summer feel to your wardrobe, especially when paired with a breezy madras shirt. However, light-blue jeans (and other colors of denim) are very informal. You may choose to wear them with nicer knit shirts, such as a polo shirt, and dress up the outfit by including elements such as a light jacket or sweater. If you’re aiming for business-casual at work or a night on the town, leave the light-colored jeans in the closet for the occasion: crisp, dark-blue jeans are always dressier....

J Kent Erickson