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Achieving the Lived-in Look

Sep 01 2015

While a crisp, clean look is appealing, there are times when you don’t want to look too pressed, too starched, too new. Especially in your custom casual clothing, you may want to create a more lived-in look than your dressier wardrobe pieces offer—without sacrificing on style or fit. Your expertly crafted customwear will look—and feel—as comfortable and familiar as your long-beloved favorites. Your color choices can also help create a more relaxed look. Choose muted earth tones instead of bright, crisp colors. Mossy greens, camel brown, and heathered colors are good options when crafting that subtle lived-in look. Low-contrast plaids and stripes look more relaxed than contrasting colors. Denim is a perennial favorite for crafting the lived-in look. Its color intensity varies sharply with wear, yet denim offers long-lasting durability. Pairing a custom-made shirt in an earth tone with a well-fitting pair of denim jeans instantly gives you an appealing ensemble. Remember that...

J Kent Erickson

Casual Attire

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Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

Aug 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between hand-sewn and machine-sewn seams? This is what I shared with them: Hand-sewn seams are created by a single thread running through fabric like a wave. Done right, they lay smooth and do not pucker. Hand-sewn seams handle stretching well, and spring back into place after movement. Hand stitching is advantageous in curved areas like armholes, collars, and waistbands. Machine-sewn seams use two threads crossing over each other through the fabric. They are sturdy and more precise than hand-sewn seams, but the extra tension created by having two threads pulling in opposition can lead to puckers in the fabric on curves. Machine stitching is advantageous in straight-seam areas like trouser legs, where it can be more durable and cleaner than hand stitching....

J Kent Erickson

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J. Kent Ltd. Experience

FINE ART OF CUSTOM CLOTHING IS PRICELESS

Aug 01 2015

The quote may be from a popular children’s movie, but the idea is true for grown-up endeavors as well. You may have heard it said as a variation of this: “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.” No matter how you say it, true quality takes time, effort, and skill. Custom clothing is its own kind of art, and it does take time to create high-quality customized clothing. Even in today’s frenetically paced world, where nearly everything seems to be “instantly” available, it takes time to create the kind of quality and precision that make your custom clothing a fantastic investment in comfort and style. If the dyeing process is rushed, the result is uneven colors. If the hand-sewn seams are rushed, the end result is puckered fabric. If the measuring is rushed, you’ll end up with a poor fit. Remember that your art (in this case, custom clothing) is worth waiting for—because...

J Kent Erickson

J. Kent Ltd. Experience

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Accessories & Jewelry

Principles of the Wallet

Jul 15 2015

Unlike its predecessors, the wallet of today doesn’t need to hold a myriad of tiny family photos, store credit cards, and paper receipts. However, even with all the changes in what people carry with them, wallets are not obsolete—they offer a safe home for your essentials, protecting them from the wear and tear of traveling with you each day. Choosing a Wallet When you’re selecting your next wallet, consider these points: A slim wallet will not create unsightly bulk when carried in a pocket. Top-grain leather gives long-lasting durability with premium visual appeal. Make sure your wallet has only the essential card pockets, as these add layers of cloth and leather. Keep only the essentials in your wallet; carry larger or rarely used items in a briefcase or travel bag. The color of leather is not of primary importance, but you may opt to coordinate your wallet with your belt and shoes. Wearing a Wallet The best place...

J Kent Erickson

Accessories & Jewelry

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Fabrics & Textiles

Color and Lighting Conditions

Jul 01 2015

We may think that a color is always the same, but colors can change drastically in different lighting conditions. At dawn and dusk, fabric colors will look warmer and richer. Light from a northern window at noon will give fabrics a cooler appearance. Artificial lighting can change colors even more. Incandescent bulbs give a pinkish cast, while fluorescent lights add green or blue. It’s useful to know how your ensemble will look in its intended setting. Blacks can take on a brown or greenish hue. Midnight blues can appear blacker than actual black fabrics. Planning in advance can allow you to optimize your color choices—especially for formalwear. If true black will turn to dark green, you may prefer to create your next tuxedo in a midnight blue. When selecting fabrics, view the swatches in the lighting types that will dominate during their use: consider indirect and direct natural light, as well as...

Vacation Essentials: Clothing

Jun 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What essentials do you recommend packing for vacations? This is what I shared with them: When you’re heading out for a vacation, it’s easy to over-pack as you try to anticipate every possible weather condition or activity. Instead of trying to fit everything you might possibly need into your carry-on bag, consider this list of a few travel vacation essentials that can help you keep comfortable in unexpected situations. Even if you’re going to a warm climate, bring a light sweater in case of a change in weather. Bring a blazer for evening breeze protection (if you’re wearing the sweater, you can gallantly offer the blazer to your travel companion). Pack at least one dress shirt for evenings out. Bring dark jeans and comfortable shoes (that aren’t sandals). And of course, bring your sunglasses....

Daring and Sparing: How to Wear Unusual Colors

Jun 01 2015

The basics play an important role in a wardrobe, but sometimes you may want to wear unusual colors to add life and vitality to an outfit. When you’re deciding when—and how—to incorporate these colors into your ensemble, keep the following concepts in mind: A little goes a long way. Whether you’re considering lime green or sunshine yellow, be careful not to let it overwhelm the rest of your ensemble. A bright, bold pocket square or tie will usually serve the purpose better than a coat of the same color. Know your purpose. Are you trying to stand out in a job interview or showcase your inner creativity? A wardrobe piece that shows off your fashion savvy at a luncheon with those in a creative industry may not work as well in an interview setting. Keep unusual colors higher on the frame. A violet vest or tie is generally preferable to violet trousers, unless...

The Wardrobe Toolkit

May 15 2015

Just as a carpenter wouldn’t be prepared for his work without a toolbox full of the tools he needs to create excellence in carpentry, a gentleman should ensure he has a wardrobe toolkit with the essentials to care properly for his wardrobe. Hangers: Thick, well-shaped hangers help you avoid stretched-out or drooping shoulders. Shaped hangers also follow the natural curve of the back, which allows your clothing to hang in a resting state, instead of being pulled straight and taut. Suit bags: Use suit bags to store your off-season clothing. This avoids dust buildup and discoloration due to light exposure. Linen, cotton, or any other breathable fabric are preferable to plastic or vinyl, as they allow your clothing to breathe. Lint remover: Lint, dust, pet hair, stray threads, and more can be removed speedily with a dependable lint remover. Clothes brush: Keep this tool handy for a quick pick-me-up when a suit is looking...

Sprezzatura: The Art of Carelessness

May 01 2015

Some of us work hard to create a look of elegance. They study, they learn, they make careful style decisions. Others of us seem to achieve elegance naturally. They have an air of easy grace and carelessness that seems to belie the effort involved in looking fantastic. What’s the difference? It’s sprezzatura: the Italian concept of nonchalance with excellence, which we might call studied carelessness. And it’s a fantastic way to create your own individual style. But how to achieve it? What’s the difference between painstaking perfection and effortless perfection? It’s the imperfections. Good style shouldn’t look like you worked hard to create an ensemble; it should look like it sprang into being spontaneously, joyfully. Avoid being overly careful when placing your pocket square. Let your tie knot be off-center. Wear shoes that do not exactly match your suit. A small imperfection may be the key to creating the perfect air of...

How to Iron a Dress Shirt

Apr 15 2015

I received this question from a reader: What's the Best Way to Iron a Dress Shirt? This is what I shared with them: Ironing carefully will ensure your shirts look their absolute best each time you wear them. Use the lowest temperature that is effective. Turn on the steam setting if necessary. Thicker fabric will require more heat and steam than thin fabric. Iron the back of the shirt first, from the center to the sides. Iron the sleeves next, followed by the cuffs. Turn the shirt over and iron each side of the front, taking care to iron between buttons instead of running over them. Iron the collar last. Hang (or wear) immediately to avoid getting new wrinkles in the fabric....

J Kent Erickson

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Newer Posts

Older Posts

Achieving the Lived-in Look

Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

FINE ART OF CUSTOM CLOTHING IS PRICELESS

Principles of the Wallet

Color and Lighting Conditions

Vacation Essentials: Clothing

Daring and Sparing: How to Wear Unusual Colors

The Wardrobe Toolkit

Sprezzatura: The Art of Carelessness

How to Iron a Dress Shirt

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