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Suiting Fabrics For Fall 2012: Vintage Look, Modern Fabrics

Sep 17 2012

This fall, look for suiting fabrics that call to mind the traditional textiles of yesteryear, with modern twists. The updated offerings combine the durability of time-honored autumn clothing with fresh innovations that work in contemporary urban life. Heritage fabrics, such as twills and tweeds, speak of a refined country past. This year, many textile mills are bringing back those rugged suiting fabrics and updating them for modern gentlemen. Many designers are combining the strength of classic weaves with irregular finishes and varying yarn types and weights to bring a fresh look to fall suits. Varying the yarn types and thicknesses creates irregular surfaces that add visual interest. The update to fall fabrics isn't limited to the yarns. Traditional herringbone and tweed weaves are changing scale, offering a greater variety of print sizes than seen earlier, while remaining true to the classic autumn browns, russets, creams, and tans. Mills are also creating new fabric...

J Kent Erickson

Seasonal Attire

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Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

Ties For Spread Collars

Aug 30 2012

Many gentlemen prefer to wear spread collars on their dress shirts. The wide angles of a spread collar can create a masterful, mature look. However, because of its width, a spread collar also creates a wide space at your neck, leaving some ties looking insufficient. You can create pleasing proportions through your choice of fabric and knot. Choosing a thicker fabric will help your tie take up more space. A wider tie will also help add bulk to the knot. The knot itself should likewise be substantial, so try a Windsor or half-Windsor knot rather than the more common four-in-hand. The wider, fuller symmetrical knot more perfectly fills the space of a spread collar with well-proportioned harmony. When well balanced with an appropriate tie, a spread collar creates a strong, confident look like no other....

J Kent Erickson

Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

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Image & Lifestyle

The Silent Language

Aug 16 2012

There's more to your appearance than your clothing. High quality, well-tailored clothing gives your image an immediate boost, but you can maximize that advantage by mastering effective body language. When others see you, they see your clothes first, then they notice body language; the way you walk, how you sit, what you do with your hands while you talk, and the expressions on your face. All these contribute to their opinion of you. Three key points on body language will steer you toward an image of confidence and self-assurance. Handshake- Check that your handshake is firm but not overbearing. No one likes a weak grip, but they also don't want bruised fingers after a quick hello-and-handshake. Eye contact- Many of us look at people when they're talking to us, but let our gaze wander when we're the one speaking. Eye contact, more than anything else, shows that we're...

Fraying Shirt Cuffs

Jul 23 2012

I received this question from a reader: Why do my shirt cuffs keep fraying? This is what I shared with them: Fraying shirt cuffs is generally due to the shirt rubbing on something: a watch, a desk for those who spend time writing by hand, or a keyboard for those who spend time at the computer. You may want to choose slightly larger cuffs on your shirts, so that the cuff slides easily over the watch instead of getting caught on it. Even a very smooth watch can create friction that will wear on your shirt. When you write or type, lift your arm slightly, or roll your sleeves up first....

Summer Fabrics for 2012

Jul 16 2012

Reinvigorate your summer wardrobe with an infusion of updated dress shirts. The fresh colors, textures, and patterns for 2012 offer your summer suit a wide array of appealing options and looks. Shades of summer: Let your everyday white or blue dress shirts take a backseat this season to shirts that simmer with summer color. Try a pale violet or lime green to add pizzazz to your image. Just be sure to wear a toned-down tie, to avoid overwhelming your outfit with color. Get texturized: Your shirt’s texture adds not only to its comfort and durability, but also to its eye appeal. Look for summer shirts that create a great feel, or “hand,” through the variations in the weave that add visual depth to the fabric. Fine patterns: Summer patterned shirt fabrics are going subtle this year. Look for mini-checks or fine stripes to add interest to your seasonal dress shirts. You can keep...

J Kent Erickson

Seasonal Attire

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J. Kent Ltd. Experience

Choose the Details

Jul 09 2012

Ready-to-wear clothing is full of details that attempt to offer interesting focal points to the eye. But those details are decided by far-off fashion designers, and change with the season. If you find a detail you like, it may be gone the next time you shop. If you don’t like the current offerings, it can be hard to find clothing that looks great on you. That’s what makes custom clothing so valuable: you choose the details that work for you, and you can have them every time you make a new custom clothing selection. You’re never limited by the whims of fashion, because you can pick and choose your favorite features, from pockets and buttons to fabrics and cuts....

J Kent Erickson

J. Kent Ltd. Experience

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Accessories & Jewelry

Choosing Belts: Four Classic Belt Styles

Jul 02 2012

Pairing a belt with clothing can be a tricky business: you want it to look perfect with today's outfit, and yet coordinate with several outfits. Each type of belt has its own built-in style. Here are five classic belt styles for different looks. Canvas- With its relaxed look, the canvas belt works well with casual-wear such as chinos or corduroys. Tans and browns work best with khaki slacks, while darker belts look best over darker trousers. Plaited- While dressier than a canvas belt, plaited leather belts are still on the relaxed end. Wear them with a sport jacket and trousers, or with your more casual suits. Black leather- A black belt with a brass or silver buckle is a perennial favorite for good reason: it can be worn any time you're wearing black shoes, whether you're wearing a fine suit or trousers without a coat. Brown leather- Brown leather belts...

J Kent Erickson

Accessories & Jewelry

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Footwear & Hosiery

Shoes That Shine: Dress Shoes

Jun 25 2012

There’s more to choosing a pair of dress shoes than making sure their color works for your outfit. Each type of shoe has its own level of dressiness, and will work best within a range of outfits. From casual to dressy, here are a few classic choices: Loafers: Shoes without laces are part of the broad category of loafers (such as penny loafers and moccasins). Less dressy than their laced-up counterparts, loafers can be worn easily with business-casual outfits, lightweight summer suits, and dressier casualwear. Bluchers (open lacing): If the top of the shoe and the tongue are crafted from one piece of leather, a portion of the tongue shows from beneath the laces, giving it an open look (such as wingtips and Derbies). Bluchers are frequently more detailed than both loafers and balmorals. Wear with suits, slacks, and dressier jeans. Balmorals (closed lacing): When the lacing pulls the shoe shut over the tongue...

Principles Of Graphic Design In Dressing

Jun 18 2012

When composing an image, graphic designers use a few well-known principles to ensure their art is appealing to the eye. Gentlemen can apply those same timeless principles to the art of dressing. Rule of Thirds: Most designers avoid placing the focal point in the exact middle or right on an edge of the image. Instead, it’s placed about a third of the way in from an edge. When wearing a suit, the hem of the coat should reach well below the halfway point to avoid visually cutting your frame in half. Avoiding Fragments: When a design element extends beyond the edge of the image, distracting visual fragments can be formed. Designers enlarge the fragment to avoid jarring the eye. Ensure your collar and shirt cuffs extend an appropriate length past your coat to keep from creating small visual fragments in your outfit. Remember, you are an image to those who see you, and considering the...

Allowances for New Dress Shirt Shrinkage

Jun 11 2012

I received this question from a reader: How much shrinkage should I allow for when I select new dress shirts? Here's what I shared with them: As your custom tailor, naturally we allow sufficient fabric for shrinkage, so you never have to worry about ending up with a shirt that’s too small. If you still want to know the basics of shrinkage, remember that cotton fabrics will generally shrink more lengthwise (from top to bottom) than across (from side to side). Some shirts may shrink up to half an inch in length. Check that you can fit one to two fingers between your neck and the collar. This allows room for ease in wearing and for any shrinkage. Most shirts will allow plenty of length in the body of the shirt, but make sure the shirt sleeves are long enough to lose half an inch and still reach to your wrist easily....

J Kent Erickson

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Newer Posts

Older Posts

Suiting Fabrics For Fall 2012: Vintage Look, Modern Fabrics

Ties For Spread Collars

The Silent Language

Fraying Shirt Cuffs

Summer Fabrics for 2012

Choose the Details

Choosing Belts: Four Classic Belt Styles

Shoes That Shine: Dress Shoes

Principles Of Graphic Design In Dressing

Allowances for New Dress Shirt Shrinkage

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