J Kent Erickson | J. Kent Ltd.

Socks: Choosing the Right Color

Aug 10 2010

I received this question from a reader: What is the rule on sock color? This is what I shared with them: Socks, when visible, act as an extension of the trouser leg. Choose a sock color in a shade that blends well with your suit fabric. Matching suit to sock eliminates calling attention to the ankle in those moments when the trousers’ movement reveals the sock, such as when sitting or walking briskly. Trousers should be cut long enough to cover socks at all other times....

J Kent Erickson

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Seasonal Attire

Summer Wardrobe

Jul 31 2010

The blustery days of spring turn into a distant memory when the weather warms up. And your warm winter suit, so helpful a few months ago, can soon seem too heavy to wear. Keep your cool this summer—without losing your professional look—by crafting a summer wardrobe with style. Your tools? Summer wardrobe-worthy fabrics in wool, linen, silk, and cotton. Wool can still be your wardrobe’s best friend during the sun-friendly months. Simply keep to lightweight versions (look for tropical or summer weight fabrics) to retain the breathability of wool’s natural fibers without the warmth of the winter weights. Linen fabrics offer a looser weave than wool, which lets air circulate to keep you cool without compromising style by dressing down. Minimize your linen suit’s wrinkles by tailoring the fit to your shape. Baggy trousers and an oversized coat will wrinkle more than a suit that moves with you. Silks and silk blends drape beautifully...

J Kent Erickson

Seasonal Attire

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Suits

Detailed to “Suit” You

Jul 22 2010

We’ve all heard the phrase, “the devil is in the details.” It’s true that the details—whether in business dealings or business attire—can make the difference between success and failure. Most businessmen wouldn’t dream of presenting a business proposal without careful attention to the details. Applying that same level of care to a business wardrobe is just as important. The niceties of a suit can create the impression of success or failure, competence or irresponsibility, strength or weakness. We can help you craft a suit that conveys the impression most suitable to your needs. The choices on details are seldom “right” or “wrong,” but rather points on a sliding scale. For example, using a Windsor half-knot on your tie looks heavier than the trimmer four-in-hand knot. Cutting squared suit shoulders creates a more solid look than the closely fitted silhouette. Your custom-tailored suit is shaped not just to fit your measurements, but to create...

Style for All Seasons

Jun 21 2010

Fashion fads come and go. Lapels and collars may widen or narrow, fabrics may trend toward light or dark, and trouser hemlines can change course over time. Rather than chase after short-lived concepts, the savvy businessman customizes his suits for his build, sense of personal style, and business habits. This allows his wardrobe to weather the seasonal swings of fashion, and remain in style. Any particular tailoring decision, no matter how popular, may not be the most flattering to one’s frame. When choosing your suit’s silhouette, we can help you choose a timeless, classic look which will last for years, maximizing your wardrobe investment. Consider your personal sense of style when fitting a suit: double-breasted suits are generally dressier than their single-breasted counterparts. Coats without a vent are sleeker. Fabric selection should follow your wearing needs. If you travel frequently in your suits, be sure to select heavy-wearing fabrics. A suit for occasional...

J Kent Erickson

Seasonal Attire

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Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

Peaked Lapels are at the Peak

May 24 2010

Many business suits feature a notched lapel, conveying a dependable functionality. But when you’re looking for something a little dressier, let your lapels climb to the peak. Wearing an elegant coat with peaked lapels is suitable for most business needs, but this isn’t the suit coat that doubles as a sport coat. Don’t pair peaked lapels (including double-breasted coats) with jeans and a T-shirt–keep the power suit powerful. For an added measure of dressiness, pair the peak lapel suit with a coordinating vest. Overcoats may also be made with peaked lapels, creating an even stronger combination of elegance....

J Kent Erickson

Collars, Cuffs, & Lapels

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Cuffed Hems vs. Plain Hems

May 07 2010

I received this question from a reader: How do I choose between cuffed and plain hems on trousers? This is what I shared with them: Cuffed hems add weight and importance to the gentleman’s trousers. Their function during movement is to cover the sock and continue the trouser’s crease. Cuffs create a dressier look, so can be reserved for suit pants, except tuxedos. More casual fabrics, such as twills, poplins, or corduroys can be worn without cuffs. These fabrics do not demand a heavier hem, and are easily weighed down by unnecessary fabric. Clothing that is dress casual or business casual can be worn without cuffs....

Suit Selection: Fitting Your Form

Mar 24 2010

Mass-made clothing is, of necessity, sized for the masses. Dimensions are reduced to the most likely measurements and produced accordingly. While mass-made clothing may fit the greatest number of people, it can create an unappealing presentation for those without an "average" build. Rather than attempt to fit themselves into the average suit, those on the extremes of either height or girth, like anyone who wants options in their personal wardrobes, are best served by custom-fit clothing. Follow these suit-selection tips according to your build: For the taller gentleman, double-breasted suits add needed width, balancing out height. The same is true of pleats and cuffs on trousers. Paired with a high-quality cotton dress shirt with a small pattern and a striped tie, the ensemble makes height an asset rather than an inconvenience when sizing clothing. Those blessed more with girth than height may find a single-breasted suit to be a better choice. This slims...

Lighter Shades Liven Spring Fashion

Mar 31 2009

Whether you’re a flag waving fan of the eco-friendly movement or not, you can confidently endorse a sign of the times by going green this spring in a fresh assortment of custom shirts with fresh accents of green grass, moss and even lime. We anticipate spring fashion to be down-to-earth this season rather than explosive. Some notable trends to watch for include light clothing-in both weight and color, and a bit of shimmer and shine. Colors for spring tailored clothing are subtle and discreet. While lightness of color is of course, mandated by the season, it is a refreshing change of pace from dark navy and black suits. Enjoy the rebirth of lighter shades of silvery gray and dusty neutral tones. Such colors are prevalent in both suiting and European inspired sport jackets....

Caring for Fine Footwear

Mar 31 2009

Like man’s best friend, if you love your shoes and take good care of them, you’ll be repaid with years of loyal service. There’s a huge return on a gentleman’s investment in acquiring and caring for a few pair of fine footwear. While they may not last a lifetime, with proper care and routine maintenance you can log substantial miles and years in a good pair of shoes. Pointers for extending the life of your loafers or beefing up the performance of your brogues: Invest in the best footwear you can afford, and re-sole and re-heel them as necessary, just like routine maintenance on your automobile. Regular tune-ups and even re-crafting over time will restore and extend the youthful vigor of your favorite shoes. Acquire and wear the right shoes for each occasion. Always rotate your shoes, allowing at least a day of rest between wearings. Let them rest on a good pair...

J Kent Erickson

Care & Maintenance

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